Small kids?

RUSH to the incredibly hard-to-pronounce Jardin des Tuileries .  The Tuileries ("too-ill-err-ees?" maybe) Garden is the "main" garden right in the very centre of Paris, that is to say on the "Right Bank."

 

Do you know the Place Vendome ?   (If you're in a taxi, don't forget "Place" is pronounced "Plass" in France...it simply means square. "Plass Vendome, s'il vous plait.")  Place Vendome is, as the French would say, the most beautiful square in Paris, and hence in France, and hence the world. And, they are correct!
You can easily look up Place Vendome on say viamichelin.com.  It is the glorious square with the Hotel Ritz and the famous column of Napoleon in the middle.   Small Children ABSOLUTELY LOVE Place Vendome.  They run around like wild, it's fantastic...while adults can look in the windows of the incredible shops, etc.

 

From Place Vendome, simply walk a couple hundred yards south to Tuileries Garden.   You will come to Rue de Rivoli , which is a horrible tourist strip where you can buy "I heart Paris" t-shirts and the like.   Carefully cross Rue de Rivoli and enter Tuileries Garden through one of the wonderful gates.   Your kids will be in heaven.  Fantastic photo opportunities everywhere.  Imagine living in one of those beautiful apartments opposite, overlooking the park.

First, head for the DONKEY AND PONY ride!  You heard it right, the most homely, awesome, donkey & pony ride in the world is two steps from the world's most sophisticated shopping: they say Paris is fundamentally a country village and this proves it!  The kids want to ride the Donkeys/Ponies endlessly: be prepared to blow 10 Euros or so.  If you are from the States, you'll be pleased to here there is no stuffy insurance or liability concerns in France!  Even the smallest children can ride.  You'll love it.

Next, take two steps to the traditional CAROUSEL which you will love, you will be in heaven.  My kids are apoplectic trying to decide which they want to ride first, the carousel or the real donkeys.  Bring all your film or a 5 GB flash card for your digital camera.

Wait, there's more!   Take two steps to the awesome IN-GROUND TRAMPOLINE ride!  It costs a couple Euros to use the trampolilnes for 5 minutes.  If you are there in winter...cold...there is no waiting; if you are there in summer, the kids get to wait in line with the French (and tourist) kids with all their shoes off...it is great.

Don't forget...all of this is still within sight...within a couple hundred yards!...of the very centre of Paris sophistication, Place Vencome and Napoleon's column. But hang on, I'm just warming up!  You've ridden the Donkeys, the Carousel, played on the Trampolines, visited the awesome adventure playground (I didn't even get time to mention that above!) with the fantastic silver UFO that kids slide around on...now, take three steps to the beautiful pond, with ducks to feed .  You will absolutely love it.  By this point you will be thinking "why the heck would parents take children anywhere in the world other than Paris?"

Time to go back to the hotel and rest all afternoon.  Next day....head straight to Place Vendome again and step to the Tuileries Gardens...the kids will be desperate to ride the donkeys, carousel, feed the ducks etc.

Next! Leave the Tuileries Garden and again cross Rue du Rivoli. Go back in one block towards the Place Vendome. Head to your left one block.   Look around, and find LE NAIN BLEU ...now there's a secret Small Children In Paris tip!  "Le Nain Bleu" means "The blue dwarf" and it is a fabulous little toystore.  You will love it.   Check out the incredible jugsaw puzzles....check out everything.  You can spend a lot of money on a collector doll, or a few Euros on some great little knick-knack with style.

I don't have time to write any more, so one more random hot tip for Small Children In Paris.  Now that you've enjoyed the Right Bank, take a taxi to Au Bon Marche , which is a large stylish department store which is the very heart of, well, one section of the Left Bank.

(Don't forget in Paris...Left Bank is arty, Right Bank is more formal and stuffy...setting aside the Tuileries Gardens, which is kid central!)

Anyway, go to and enjoy some adult time in Au Bon Marche department store...you will love it.  The kids clothing and stuff is in the basement, you will love that too. Anyway, exit Au Bon Marche and look at the smallish garden across the road...walk in to the garden through the iron gates  Discover another beautiful and charming small carousel , you will love it.  Another terrific French playground, too!

Here's a fantastic secret tip when you're in that area: walk 100 yards to Rue du Dragon which is a cool little shopping street.  (If you follow Rue du Dragon from that end to the other end, you will be at St Germain des Pres, the glorious Left Bank historic church.  That's where those really famous Parisian cafes are to be found.)  Anyways: on Rue du Dragon, you must find on your right LILY's which is a really, REALLY good muffin shop.  It is haute cuisine muffins.  It is zen and the art of muffins...actually run by a New Yorker who moved to Paris because she felt only in Paris could she Perfect muffin making, and she was right.  Buy the kids an incredible muffin, or, one of the flavored breads...MMMMMM!  Parents can grab a coffee, it is casual.  You'll love it!

By now the kids will be desperate to go feed the ducks, ride the donkeys, etc in the Tuileries Gardens...and you will too!  Secret tip, in the Gardens, look for the special french water-wells: you kind of spin the handle around, rather than the usual up-and-down pump on wells.  Kids play with them for hours.  You'll see one just by the stop of the Donkey ride.  Enjoy!

There is so, so much to do in Paris for small children (2, 3, 4 years). You will have a great time.  Keep clear of the usual tourist junk lik ethe Eiffel Tower which only results in hours of pointless waiting for nothing much.  Your kids will adore the ducks in the pond in the Tuileries Gardens...what else do you need in life?  Don't forget to bring some bread crusts from the hotel!

Finally for some parent fun in Paris: Paris has INCREDIBLE shopping for children's clothes .  You have to indulge. You can buy incredible value underwear and the like that lasts forever from Petit Bateaux (if you don't know the brand, ask any French mom for directions to the nearest Petit Bateux shop), or you can go to all the incredible children's designer clothing stores such as the incredibly elegant Bon Point , playful Miki House from Japan, and many many more.  Your kids will be ready to go see the ducks again....enjoy!

 

If you have a small child but came to Paris for at least a little culture, you can get your fix at the amazing Musee d'Orsay.  A stunning collection of French art, particularly 19th century Impressionists. Renoir, Monet, Cezanne, Van Gogh..an unbelievable amount of the greatest art in the world all in one place (and at a reasonable EUR 7.50 per ticket too).  But the highlight for frazzled parents is that the museum is surprisingly kid-supportive.  At the coat check you can rent a stroller for free (you need to leave a license or passport for deposit) so you don't need to worry about carrying the little one.  There are clean baby-changing rooms.  The exhibit rooms are fairly open and the floors are wide and smooth.  There are open interior terraces and wide marble floors with benches.  Don't be mistaken, this is one of the world's great museums, not a playground.  But if your toddler just NEEDS to do some toddling on a rainy day, you can very easily let them stretch their legs while you ponder a Rodin.  We headed to the museum with our 2 year old *determined* to see the art and came away happily surprised at how the day turned out to be a wonderful and low-stress experience.