We took a leap of faith and landed safely in Valerie's lap. Let me explain. From 7,000 miles away, I was looking for a place to stay as a base for some hiking in the French Pyrenees. I am generally not a fan of B&Bs (too cloying), but the reviews of Valerie's intrigued me because they were so consistently good. I made reservations for three nights for my husband and myself, as well as for our daughter and her boyfriend.

The door was open when we arrived at Valerie's in Bagneres-de-Bigorre, a beautiful town in the Midi-Pyrenees, and I knew immediately that this was the right place...she made us a pot of strong tea, which she served with a homemade nut bread. The days went like this: Valerie cooked us breakfast, we shopped for lunch (fresh baguettes, fresh fruit, local cheeses and cookies), went on long beautiful hikes, had a late afternoon spot of tea when we arrived back, and a shower and a rest before sitting down to Valerie's spectacular dinners.

The rooms and bathrooms were clean and comfortable and the 300 to 400 year old house is fully restored. Don't miss having dinner at Valerie's (20 Euro per person, a bit more for a special birthday dinner). She is a fantastic cook. Here's a sample: caramelized onion tart as a starter, pasta with smoked salmon and broccoli in a cream sauce, salad, bread, a cheese course featuring several local cheeses, apple crumble for dessert and all this washed down with three different local wines. Oh la la!

I couldn't agree more with the general sentiment expressed in the other reviews--although I would like to keep Valerie's a secret, it wouldn't be fair to do so. Most of the other reviewers are British so I want to add an American perspective. Three things that Americans sometimes expect: a lift (elevator), air conditioning, and a bathroom in the room. None of these are available at Valerie's (or the majority of accommodations in France). If you are looking for these, then look for an American style hotel. To me, the # 2 rule of travel is, "when in Rome, do as the Romans do" (#1 rule is don't pack more than you are willing to carry 10 city blocks). So be prepared to climb the stairs, use the bathroom off the hall, and enjoy the incredible place/person that is Valerie's. Bonne journee.