There’s something special about extremes in whatever form they may take, that captures the imagination. So when I read that Marshall Meadows Hotel is the most northerly hotel in England, just 400 yards from the Scottish border, I was immediately attracted by the notion of staying there, if only to know that I could look out of its windows into the south of Scotland (or The Borders, as that area of the wonderful land of Haggis and Porridge is generally known).
What made it more enticing was the fact that in January there was a special offer via a company called Superbreak, at a price that was far too good to miss and which included the rail fare. Add to that some of the photos my wife and I saw online of the hotel and it seemed an ideal post-festive-season break – and although we weren’t expecting a heat wave, the bracing sea air would do us both good.
We couldn’t blame either the hotel management or Superbreak for the fact that on our day of travel, there were raging winds across Scotland and North-East England that necessitated all trains terminating at Newcastle, nor that to compound the problem there was a signalling failure between Newark and Retford that meant that what trains had left London were already were already running up to two and a half hours late. Arriving in Newcastle, we had to find the Haymarket Bus Station and pick up the 505 Arriva bus to Berwick, a cold journey of two and a half hours. Finally dismounting at Berwick’s Golden Square seven hours after our journey had begun (we could have reached Paris faster!) we discovered that the January winds in the north have teeth (bracing sea air?!!!) and that waiting for a bus to the hotel would not be a good idea, even if we could find one; so we duly took a taxi.
At this point I should add that Marshall Meadows is not actually in Berwick. It’s a couple of miles north of the town, in its own secluded grounds off the A1. And although there are bus stops for each direction right at the entrance to its driveway, arriving by bus from Berwick necessitates crossing both carriageways of the A1 – not something you’d want to do in the dark, quite apart from not knowing where to get off the first time you make the trip.
Anyway, arriving at the hotel at long last at somewhere around 7.45pm, we were gratified by the warmth of our reception by a gentleman whom we later learned was (and still is) the joint owner of the place. He had even taken the trouble to make sure the chef was still available to produce a meal, should we want one. He also saw how cold we both were and gave us a blow-heater to supplement the hotel’s heating system and help us to thaw out faster. We declined the meal, being lunch-time eaters and having survived the journey with snacks, but gratefully accepted the heater.
Our room was of magnificent proportions, with heavy curtains, a settee, chest of drawers, writing desk and an occasional table as well as a walk-in wardrobe. The en-suite bathroom was also spacious, well lighted and very clean and fresh. There were tea and coffee making facilities and biscuits and of course the trouser-press that tells you that you’re in a place with class! (Does anyone, I wonder, ever have one of these contraptions at home? Do Comet or Currys even sell them?)
The bath filled up with hot water very quickly – a real relief and the best way to get warm. The bed was as comfortable as our own one at home – nice and firm – and the bedside radio/alarm clock (a nice touch) gave us the latest news (“High winds across the UK” – surprise, surprise!) before we succumbed to sleep.
Breakfast the following morning was excellent, with a very wide choice of cooked items (including haggis!) as well as fruit salad, yoghurt, cereals, toast with local jams and honeycomb and tea or coffee. Not having eaten kippers in years I opted for that, while my wife had bacon and eggs with all the trimmings. Everything was very well cooked and the breakfast room was a delightful place to eat. We were a bit puzzled by the fact that no-one else was in there for breakfast. Asking the waitress about this, we were told that there was only one other guest in the hotel and she had just gone out. In view of the biting January winds we faced that day, I guess this wouldn’t be the high season for holiday-makers. In fact, on our departure, the hotel was scheduled to close until February for maintenance.
The extensive grounds of the Marshall Meadows Hotel are beautifully landscaped and would greatly appeal to lovers of quiet places, with rolling hills and the sea and no intrusive sound from the somewhat distant A1. It’s also a nature-lover’s paradise – on our last morning there a couple of young roe deer chased each other around the lawn. Many species of birds are to be seen and badgers apparently often show up. And it’s no surprise to learn that the hotel, a magnificent old building, is a favoured venue for weddings and receptions. It must be lovely there in summer!
As well as comfortable rooms, the hotel has a bar, lounge and conservatory. Everything is as you’d expect it to be in a high-class hotel and the staff are without exception very friendly and helpful. I can’t comment on meals other than breakfast: as I mentioned, we tend to eat our main meals at lunchtimes. But I’d be very surprised if dinner here fell short of the standard set by every other aspect of the place.
Few people are likely to travel to this hotel by any means other than car. But for those few it’s worth mentioning the following:
• Local buses are run by Perryman’s, from whose website you can download a timetable onto your computer or smartphone. They go as far north as Edinburgh.
• Wrinklies like us (sorry, I mean over-60s) can use their bus-passes on any local buses, even as far as Newcastle. However, the furthest they will take you into Scotland is Eyemouth, a small fishing town that’s really worth a visit – but preferably in warm weather!
• Perryman’s buses stop just outside the driveway to Marshall Meadows and run once an hour. The journey into Berwick is less than ten minutes.
• A taxi from Berwick to the hotel costs around £6.
Berwick is a very attractive town with a lot to see but for those who wish to venture into the surrounding area, there’s a lot to see. We found the aforementioned Eyemouth fascinating – one of Britain’s still functioning fishing ports with a lot of bustle about it. We also fell in love with the town of Alnwick, a wonderful place to spend a day. There are many other attractions in the area and Marshall Meadows hotel has a lot of leaflets to help you choose.
I would strongly recommend a visit to Marshall Meadows. You won’t be disappointed. I can’t, however, make any guarantees about the weather!
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC