I make it a point to avoid Martha’s Vineyard. The ferry, with all its scheduling and waiting around, is just the sort of headache I don’t need. Martha’s Vineyard attracts the types of people who annoy me the most. People who sail. Sixty-somethings with permanent tans and PYT fourth wives. Swarms of daytrippers braying for lobster rolls in the foetid alleyways of fishing villages turned into tourist traps. Indolent monied youth yawning their summer holidays away.

Members of my family know well that, if they hold an event on Martha’s Vineyard, I will not attend. Apparently some members of My Dearest’s family did not get that memo. They scheduled an event on the wretched island and expressed surprise when I announced that I would be absent. Lively discussions followed and, ever the supportive wife, I agreed to accompany My Dearest to the event – under protest!

Determined to avoid the braying crowds, the reek of lobster rolls, and as many members of My Dearest’s family as possible, I booked us into the Outermost Inn on the very west end of the island. The location is superb with lots of privacy and many lovely views. There is a nice, although quite steep, path down to a stone beach with dramatic views across Vineyard Sound to Cuttyhunk Island.

The rooms are too barebones for my liking with rudimentary wooden furniture, kitsch art, and non-descript fabrics and furnishings. The bed was adequate but just barely so. Some would call this New England charm. I call it New England drab: rather like the stiff ladies in Boston who march around without makeup. Still our room was quite functional, and everything was immaculately clean. The fresh flowers were an isolated nice touch. Noise travels throughout the inn, so everyone hears every door slam and every raised voice.

Some rooms have excellent views of the sea, while others don’t. When booking, you should ask detailed questions about the view from your room, especially if you plan to spend much time in the room.

The bathroom was smallish with basic furnishings and fixtures. The soap and shampoo provided were of only average quality. The water pressure in the shower was good.

The innkeepers were first rate: well organized and constantly on the move making sure everything runs efficiently. They must take happy pills every hour, because they were always cheerful and always ready to help.

The restaurant was packed for dinner each night of our stay. It’s probably one of the few decent places to eat for miles around. So be sure to make dinner reservations when you book your room: otherwise you may be out of luck. The dinner menu was limited, but the dishes featured fresh local produce and were skillfully prepared. The wine list offered only a small selection of non-descript wines. Breakfast was, by the standards of New England inns, quite good with fresh eggs cooked to order, uber fresh local tomatoes, and homemade breads.

There is an honor bar on an outdoor porch. From the porch there are nice views across the lawn and towards the Sound. On a sunny afternoon sipping chilled white wine and enjoying this view is indeed a pleasure.

This place is not cheap, and the rooms are not worth the prices. But you are not paying for the room. You are paying for the location, the views, and the delicious peace and quiet.

As an island summer resident for 40 years I can attest that for sheer natural beauty of location there is no rival to the Outermost Inn, which is located on the meadows forming the backside of the gorgeous clay cliffs of Zacks Beach in Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head) Martha's Vineyard. Deer pranced in the lush greenery as we sipped cocktails on the porch waiting for dinner and watching a breathtaking sunset. The food at dinner was great (although the portions are a bit too small for an $85 price fix) and the winelist was well put together. For daytime activities, the Inn boasts private access to the beach (at check in you are provided a map for a beautiful walking tour) as well as passes to Philbin Beach (one of the nicest beaches on the island-- Philbin passes are otherwise only available to Aquinnah residents). Hugh Taylor (brother of James) and his wife are proprietors and quintessential islanders-- pleasant, warm and easy- going. Hugh himself prepared breakfast (included in the price of the room) which was a generous portion of pan poached eggs, salmon, hash browns, fresh fruits, english muffin and coffee. The entire place has such a relaxed feel. There is an honor system for cocktails (you can serve yourself at a nicely stocked beer and wine bar on the porch if need be), beach chairs and towels are provided,the wait staff are caring (but not overbearing) and all take great interest in your daytime activities.

If I had a complaint it would be the quality of the mattress in the Cherry room. It was a little small and quite saggy in the middle so a good night sleep was not in the cards. Otherwise it the room was quiet and comfortable but not particularly well appointed (other than the bathroom which was quite nice). It also lacked an ocean view-- none of those rooms were available when we called in June so better to act fast.

Not an auspicous beginning. Invited to arrive early and have a drink on the terrace, we arrive early and are invited to the terrace. But not invited to have a drink. No. the friendly and relaxed staff is enchanted with a stray golden retriever that has wandered on the property. Okay, the dog's cute; but no drink. Time for the dining room. Our vivacious waitress seems to have not stopped auditioning for the provincetown run of chorus line, and the mood is, at least (best?), quirky. The setting, and dining room, though, are just about perfect for elevated summer dining on the Massachusetts islands. And the food? A genuine, and genuinely good gazpacho, fresh and well dressed greens, a piece of broiled halibut on a creamy risotto, and so on. After dinner drinks, at last, on the lawn.

We recently spent two weeks on Martha's Vineyard, and stayed at three different high-end properties. The Outermost was by far our favorite. It's one of those places where, if you looked at it piece by piece, you might be tempted to dwell on its shortcomings. But the whole package is marvellous.

Yes, there is no air conditioning. We were there during a period of exceptional heat and humidity, so this was not ideal. Yes, the rooms are looking a bit past their prime and could benefit from renovation. Yes, our bed could have used a new mattress. Yes, the price was high -- we paid $350/night (which includes a sumptuous breakfast), and that was not the most expensive room at the Outermost.

All that being said, we loved it. What makes the Outermost special is the ambience. The place exudes friendliness and down-home relaxation. It all starts with the inn keepers, Hugh and Jeannie Taylor, and their two adult children, Alexandra and Isaac. They are warm and friendly and welcoming. And mingling with other guests comes naturally, given the spacious and comfortable public areas at the Inn. We felt not so much customers as we did guests in the Taylors' country home.

The ground of the Outtermost are lovely, and guests have easy access to the beautiful, and very long, Aquinnah Beach.