Classic safari lodge in an interesting national park. Approached via water (even if, like us, you arrive too late for the river transfer from Liwonde - we still got had to get ferried across the Shire River, in pitch darkness!), the lodge stands in a stunning position on the corner of the river and a small lagoon, populated by hippos, crocs and a stunning array of birdlife.
Liwonde is something of a specialist reserve. There is big game here (and it's at the heart of Malawi's black rhino re-introduction efforts), but it's not what it's all about. The manager Jim is a keen birder, as was our guide, Samuel, who quickly realised we'd safari-ed before, were just as keen to see a new bird as to watch lion or elephant, and made sure he tailored his guiding accordingly. I have an especial affection for the beautiful sable antelope, and this is a great park to see them in.
Walks and boat rides are all part of the experience as well as drives and you can do all three in one day, which I felt added to the value for money (a lot of camps it's two drives or nothing). They're also very happy to arrange the activities you want at the time you want to go - on our last day we drove, them were taken out to the nearby lake and ate a packed lunch on a boat in the company of a small herd of elephants, keeping cool in the shallows!
The (very long!) walk from our room to the main part of the lodge was a game walk in itself - monkeys, bushbuck, warthogs and birds including a good chance of seeing Livingstone's flycatcher.
As an experience, my only real criticism is that it was not really geared towards spending time in the communal areas - it always felt a bit awkward getting a drink outside of set dining times. The sleep quality rating is entirely down to the local, vocal, population of hadeda ibis!
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC