We spent 5 nights here at Island Explorer, in their “Wahoo” apartment.

The 2 bedroom apartment is roomy and spacious, with everything you need for a self catering holiday in Vava’u. The 2 apartments on offer are on the ground floor, with the owners, Brenda and Paul, living above. Island Explorer is located overlooking the old harbour and in a suburban area of Neiafu, with houses either side. It is a little on the noisy side, with chickens, pigs and dogs, but also interesting just to watch daily Tongan life go by. The view from the front verandah is water at high tide and mud flats at low tide. At low tide you can watch the pigs going through the mud flats, looking for crabs, clams and anything else they can eat.

The Wahoo apartment consists of outside a small front verandah with swing seat, overlooking the neat garden to the road and old harbour beyond. Inside a large open area with lounge suite and coffee table, dining setting for 4 near the small, but functional kitchen with gas stove, fridge, microwave and all utensils needed. Off this area is bedroom 1, with comfortable bed, bedside lamps on tables and plenty of storage for emptying the suitcases. Bedroom 2 has a hard bed, bedside lamps on tables and shelves for storage. Both bedrooms each have a fan, which was sometimes needed, when the breeze died and the humidity rose. The internal bathroom lacks ventilation, so it gets very steamy when showering, either with the door open or closed. The hard town water that is plumbed through shows, with stains in the toilet, shower and basin. Not much that can be done about that, but the bathroom was as clean as it could be for the circumstances and no problem for us. If anything else is needed, Brenda was more than happy to try help out. Their big pot for cooking our lobster was really appreciated.

Their friend and taxi driver Peau, arranged to get fresh lobster for us, that was delicious and sensational value at TOP15 per kg (approx A$11).

Island Explorer have 2 kayaks and mountain bikes that are available to guests for hire.

If you’re looking to do boat tours and being in Vava’u it should be on your list, then for professional operations see the friendly people at Café Tropicana or next door at Adventure Backpackers. We did a trip with Brenda and Paul, where they took us snorkelling at 2 spots and a trip around some of the islands, which was a really nice half day out. They have a good boat, which appears in good order and reliable. We also did a boat trip with Peau and his boat wasn’t in good order. Although we look back on this day out as a definite experience, it’s not one we need repeat. My recommendation before doing any boat trip in Tonga, is to see the boat first. Or at least a picture of it. Also ask what safety equipment is provided on board.

For us it was a toss up between staying here or at Bayview apartments, both offering a similar style of accommodation and price. We chose here as it appeared a shorter walk into town, Neiafu, where we could arrange tours, shop, etc. It was an easy 10-15 minute walk into the waterfront area of Neiafu. Pack a torch for those walks at night as street lights are rare. Along the way we found the Balcony restaurant (opposite the catholic church) that became our definite favourite for meals or a relaxing drink. The food is fresh, tasty and great value, dining with views over Neiafu and harbour to Mt. Talau. If you don’t want to cook your own lobster, try it here with it barbequed and served with garlic butter, rice and salad. Delicious, filling and great value at TOP37 (approx A$26) for a whole lobster serve. Trish and Alex, have put a lot of hard work and effort into the restaurant and it certainly shows. For us, the Balcony is a definite reason to return to Vava’u.

Regardless of where you stay in Tonga, remember you’re visiting a poor, but wonderful country and anything extra you can fit in your luggage will be most appreciated. The genuine smiles and thanks for a pack of chewing gum (sugarfree of course) are worth a thousand packs. Next time I’ll certainly pack a football, soccer ball or basket ball (deflated) and pump for the local kids or government school.

If you’re looking for a 5 star holiday with all the trimmings available in the West, then Tonga is not going to be for you. However, if you’re looking for a holiday that’s relaxing, safe, an experience you won’t find in many places, can forego 1 or 2 of life’s little luxuries, can put up with solitude when for as far as the eye can see up and down a pristine beach, it’s just you, then Tonga is a place you’ll enjoy and want to return to.

“Tonga is for travellers, not tourists” – Jill, Colorado, USA