I was at the Estancia for 2 nights recently, the 3rd trip I've made and the best one yet. The location never fails to impress and the estancia exudes colonial charm. The staff on this visit in particular was extremely professional, the service very attentive, and the food outstanding, something that had been missing on a previous visit. Ines, the manager and member of the family that has owned the estancia for centuries, was present all weekend to make sure that all the guests were comfortable and knew the options available for touring the area. She is very professional while being very laid back and friendly - you are made to feel a part of the family here.

Chef Luis went all out for a party I hosted there, and the service was absolutely outstanding. They made my event very easy to coordinate and made all the guests feel at home. The activities at the Estancia are just as they are mentioned on the website so don't go expecting a pool. Go here for a true estancia experience, as they have many cattle, horses and llamas. They manufacture their own cheeses also. We went on horseback rides twice during our 3-day stay and the guide went out of his way to make sure we enjoyed the rides - background on the Estancia and area in general as well as stopping to take our picture at certain points. At the end of one of the rides we were able to help him herd the llama back to the Estancia - what a wonderful experience especially for the children.

This is a quiet place, with vast wilderness surrounding it. It was a wonderful getaway from cell phones, TVs (although there is a large living room with fireplace, antiques and a large flat-screen with Directv) and city noise. Peace and quiet abound but there's still plenty to do. The children in our group returned rosy-cheeked from so much exploring and as happy as children should be. A wonderful experience and I can't wait to go back one day. Thank you Ines, Luis and the rest of the staff!!

Estancia Las Carreras was the one really bad choice in our entire trip to NW Argentina. It is a guest ranch, some 25km outside Tafi del Valle along a (mainly) dirt road.

Basically what you see is not what you get. We wanted to stay on an estancia, and had an idea of what an estancia should be. However this something a little different. They have a big business with day trippers from Tafi, and that is the thrust of their business. Then the owning family have long since ceased to live here, so it is run by staff. Trouble with that was that there was no apparent manager, I have no idea who was in charge.

We arrived and looking at room information saw that there were a number of walks on their land. We asked for a map or instructions at reception, but with little success, as we were shown the far mountains and urged to walk in that direction. Nothing was marked on the walk, and there were barbed wire fences to pass. We eventually succeeded in reaching the heights, and the views were marvelous.

On returning from the walk, we joined some day trippers to see the cheese making from their own cows. We then ordered a bottle of wine and settled down to drink it in the garden. There is no swimming pool here by the way.

At dinner time we entered the restaurant - well its more a wide corridor - and ordered our meal. My wife ordered a steak and I ordered the pork. At this stage things started to go wrong. The bread was stale, but I did not complain. The main courses arrived - they brought 2 steaks. With bad grace they agreed, having found our order, that it was their fault, and took away the steak that had been served to me. My wife started on her steak, but it had been incorrectly defrosted, and was tough, dry and tasteless. She tried to tell the waiter, but he did not want to know. Then my correct order of pork arrived, but they had been to keen to fast forward it, and the pork was raw in the centre. Throughout it all not one word of apology. The waiter by now had disappeared into the kitchen, and having waited without success for him to reappear we left, leaving two virtually untouched meals on the table

Back in our room the heating was not working, and it was a cold night

Our problem was we had booked 3 nights, but no way would I eat in their restaurant again, and it would not be possible to drive 25km into town for dinner and 25 km back each day. Further the "estancia life style" that we were expecting was just not there. So the next day we told them we were leaving and why. To be fair they did not even try to charge us for the 2 days we were canceling. At this stage the chef appeared (one of those chefs who has his name embroidered onto his whites) and wanted (in Spanish) to know why I had not liked the meal the night before. I was happy to regale him with my thoughts for half an hour.

Bottom line is that there are better, much better, estancias to stay in in Argentina, so give this one a miss.

This working estancia dating back to the 1700's provides a wonderful glimpse into the past and a sound vision for the future. The hotel's adobe construction embellished with hand finished wood detailing, traditional rugs and crafts, and family heirlooms make the visitor feel at home instantly. The warm welcome of the family and staff make this a one of kind experience. The chef's sophisticated interpretations of local dishes with the freshest of ingredients make this a culinary journey enhanced by the wonderful selection of wines.

I just returned from three weeks touring northern Argentina with my husband and his Argentine relatives, admiring the extraordinary scenery, geology and wild-life. I am a bird-watcher, and enjoyed two magical days of birding in Tafi del Valle, province of Tucumán.

We stayed at Las Carreras, a ‘Town and Country Hotel’ and a working estancia (or farm) dating back 230 years under the same family ownership, secluded in tranquility 12 Km out of town along a well-maintained dirt road. The staff is attentive and obliging, the mattresses sleep very comfortably, and a talented chef uses local ingredients to prepare delectable meals. This quiet, peaceful and comfortable establishment, overflowing with charm and offering an array of outdoor activities, is ideal for bird watching right out the front door. On my first day there I saw a life bird, the gorgeous Naranjero or Blue and Yellow Tananger—a brilliant bird in remarkable surroundings.

Inés Frías Silva, one of the 9th generation owners, had offered to arrange a guided bird-watching outing upon our return to Las Carreras two weeks later. YES! What an ideal opportunity! My guide, Rodrigo Aráoz, illustrator of three local guide books, is a biology student doing his thesis on the Red-Backed Hawk.

The adventure began at 10,000 ft elevation on the road overlooking the valley. Even with the naked eye Rodrigo could spot everything that flew—eagles, hawks, small birds and large ones—and generously shared his deep knowledge of the subject. On the drive back to town we sighted many wonderful birds within a few short hours. The highlight for me was a family of the endemic Tucumán Mountain Finch.

I highly recommend Las Carreras for a pleasant and relaxing stay, and this area, including a near-by jungle on the other side of the valley, for spectacular birding. I am grateful to Inez and the helpful staff of beautiful Las Carreras for facilitating this memorable experience.