“Enjoying the sunset with a glass of Longjing tea at the teahouse on the West Lake is one of life's great pleasures”
I like to celebrate my birthday with a trip to the West Lake. This is my fifth visit to Hangzhou, but only the first to the State Guesthouse on West Lake (Xihu).
I'd spotted it from the Su causeway on the west side of the lake on previous visits and it had always intrigued me - specially with the mixed reviews I had read here on trip advisor: Peoples' Liberation Army soldiers stationed at the gates, acres of private grounds both on the lake and up in the wooded hillside behind and a promise of something really special as well.
This year we decided to really splash out and stay for a week (six nights) in a suite. Well, as it turned out we left after only three nights and moved to our old favourite "The Grande Olde Shangri-La" on Beishan Lu, also overlooking the lake, at which we'd stayed several times before. So why did we decide to not to stay there the full week?
Well, I suppose there are quite a few reasons really. Firstly, our room was the furthest room away from the Lake. The only view was of the entrance to the carpark and the hillside behind. We asked for a room with a view, but that was not possible, so they gave us a bowl of fruit instead. Secondly, I don't think the room had been used for a while and the dust was really quite thick in places. Thirdly, we had the same bedding for the three nights we stayed there - something we were not expecting for the price paid. Fourthly, as the hotel is quite isolated we decided we would eat there in the evening. The food in the 'international' restaurant wasn't too bad - delicious dongpo pork - but 3/4 hour before the restaurant closed at 830 pm the banging, shouting and general melee started. Not only was it time for the food to be cleared away, breakfast settings to be put out and general mayhem, but you had to make sure you didn't get in the way of the staff barging away laden with piles of newly washed plates. And the chattering and shouting never stopped. Ambiance? What ambiance?
However, that said, the teahouse experience on the lakeside was a fantastic and serene delight. Now, in Hangzhou (and probably other places in China as well) they offer what is called a tea suite: As well as the best quality Xi Hu Longjing tea (probably the best green tea in the world) they serve a wonderful assortment of beautiful treats of fruits, nuts, small cakes and biscuits with the tea. We sat down at a table at the very edge of the lake and enjoyed our treat as the sun went down and darkness fell over the beautiful West Lake.
Across the lake ahead of us was the Leifeng pagoda and as it started getting dark the golden lights of the pagoda glowed in the evening air with reflections shimmering on the surface of the lake. It was absolutely still and quiet all except the distant sound of orioles settling in for the night. A truly memorable experience.
The other great experience of staying in the Guesthouse was to enjoy walking in the hills up behind the hotel. There are some beautifully laid out and paved tracks that take you up to the very top of the hill to the pavillion where Mao reputedly wrote the 'constitution' of the PRC.
When you consider how crowded the walks around West Lake often are, then it surely is a delight to walk in Nature through the woods without hardly ever seeing another human being. Yes, that's what made it a great experience for me staying at the Xihu State Guesthouse.
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