I have to preface this with why this place matters and is worth finding. What is commonly called "Hassle" in Egypt is not dangerous or particularly ruinous, but it certainly grates on you. and when you get to Luxor, you will find out just how far hassle really can go. Ever step every day was another encounter with yet another "tout" who wanted to take us somewhere we did not want to go. One day we hailed three taxis in a row requesting to take us somewhere. All three took us where we DIDN'T want to go to the same multi-level tourist market. I was apoplectic and felt like I had fallen down the rabbit hole. I told the third what happened with the first two, and made him promise to take us where we wanted to go. He took us there anyway.
Which all leads me to the importance and value of the Fayrouz! When you walk into El Fayrouz the first thing you notice is that they are not trying to sell you a feluca ride, a tour of the tombs, or anything for that matter. I had to ask, and yes, it is owned by Europeans. The staff is all aimiable Egyptians, but it is clear that they understand that hassle ends at the gate.
All through El Fayrouz are outdoor patios, porches and rooftop decks where you can sit and watch the Nile glide by and drink beer alone or with friends in peace. This never felt so good as it did after a day of telling literally hundreds of folks No Thank You. The place is clean, spartan in furnishings in a good way, and as comfortable as grandma's house. And at $29 a night with AC and hot water, we were really very reluctant to leave. It is the kind of place where you do the math to see if you could afford to come there for three months to write that novel you always dreamed of.
The El Fayrouz is on the west bank but the crossing on the ferry to the main town is 19 cents American or spend $1.50 american and any one of a hundred boatsman will take you across any time day or night in five minutes. Really the excuse to be out on the Nile so often is a welcome respite, although the boatsman may take the whole trip to tell you about his cousin the tomb guide who has a nice car and.......
The hotel is down an alley that looks a bit dodgy at first but by the end of the first day you will know all the alley residents by face and they will all wave to you as you walk by. Go to the Winter Palace for your tea and biscuits, but stay at Al Fayrouz for your peace of mind. We loved the place and loved supporting their business.
- El Fayrouz Luxor
- El Fayrouz Hotel Luxor
