This is a very friendly and professionally run hotel on the slopes above Sant' Andrea. We booked a 'Country e Mare' room, which had an enormous balcony and a lovely view over the countryside and sea. Although the hotel (and Elba itself) attracts mainly Italian and German guests, there was an English speaking receptionist on duty in the evenings. The breakfasts are varied and plentiful, and can be taken on the terrace overlooking the sea. The dinners are very nice indeed, with a choice (made the night before) of three antipasti, main courses and desserts. Seafood and fish feature heavily. The bread is tasty and fresh. Unusually, the waiters come round offering seconds of the pasta - a nice touch. You also get an unadvertised starter. The swimming pool is large and usually pretty empty of swimmers due to the lure of the sea, which of course is the big attraction in Elba. When you wander down through the hotel's terraced gardens to the sea, ignore the smallish sandy beach where sunbeds, umbrellas, and bodies are packed in. Instead, take the path to the left or right. These follow the coastline to the most wonderful swimming and snorkling spots. We favoured the right hand option, following the coast for about 500m to the end of the path and a small bay. Although it is still very popular, you have more space here and can spend all day exploring the fascinating granite formations, and observing the fish on the sea-bed. The water is crystal clear around Elba and this must be one of the best spots to enjoy it. Bring acqua shoes to swim in as the granite is sharp in places. Many people bring sun umbrellas which they jam into pre-drilled holes in the granite with wooden wedges. Have fun spotting wierd formations in the granite - see if you can spot 'the alien head' and 'the brain'! If you are travelling by public transport, there are regular buses from the ferry terminal at Portoferraio to Zanca, which is on the cliff road about 1 km from Sant' Andrea. From there you can either walk or (perhaps) get another bus. The bus costs about 3 euros each. A taxi will cost you about 65 euros, but make sure you are taken via the northern route through Marciana rather than via the southern route through Marina Di Campo.
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