Just back from a stay in the sleepy little tourist town of Agios Nikitas. When you are tired of being mugged by restauranteurs and tourist schlock, and if you can handle life without Starbucks and cash machines, the soft pebbled beaches of this Ionian Isle may be for you. It's still affordable and friendly, though it's getting mobbed during the usual seasons of July and August. We stay in the Averto Hotel, which is incredibly reasonable, spacious, clean and comfortable. Both owners speak English, one speaks Italian as well, and the other speaks Danish. Naturally both speak Greek. All of the restaurants are superb and reasonable, especially when compared to the bland things served in Athens (where I began to crave Chinese food). Two which really stand out are Lefteris and Agnantio. The snorkeling in the little bay is quite interesting, the sea is usually very calm and clear, and hiking over the hill to Milos beach is just wonderful. You can get a cappucino Freddo for 3 Euro and sit and sip it on the bayside. In Athens we stayed at Hotel Adam just off the Plaka, reasonable at 70 Euros with good coffee, bread and cheese for breakfast included. The baths can be a little funky, but if that can be part of the fun for you, try it. It's clean at least. We really prefer the countryside, clear water, friendly people and soft breezes of Lefkada.