Of the eleven hotels we stayed at on a recent driving tour (six of them Relais and Chateaux affiliates), La Reserve in Albi was the best. And we never planned to stay there at all! A hotel in Spain disappointed us so we rang La Reserve on spec. The R&C brochure said that the Queen Mother had once stayed there so we rather feared a twee, chintzy sort place. Instead, we got a lovely, ultra-modern room (No.12) for two nights at 200 Euros per night. Recently remodelled, the room offered a huge bed, electric shutters, LCD TV, seating area, clever lighting and a very modern bathroom, with walk-in shower etc etc. The room was heavily designed and thought out - it was seductive yet practical. While not quite up to Four Seasons or Chewton Glen levels of luxury, this was really refreshing for France, a hotel that never stands still, always updates and reinvents itself. While the lack of a spa might bother some (not us) this is a truly relaxing retreat, on the edge of Albi, a large, lovely university city with a staggering cathedral, impressive formal garden and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum. Good bistro restaurants, too.

The hotel occupies a stretch of Tarn riverbank and from the sun loungers by the spacious pool you can gaze down the lawn and watch herons, kites and kingfishers. The garden is attractive without being overworked and manicured. The restaurant has a large stained glass window to catch the evening sun and a fireplace for the winter. Glassware and place settings are immaculate.

The cuisine does not rate a star by Michelin and, in a way, that might be for the good - it is slightly simpler and lighter and always delicious. They did a witty creme brulee of fois gras and perfect roast pigeon. Dinners might cost 55 Euros plus drinks. Service was relaxed yet well paced. Breakfast (17 Euros) was not up to this level and you might do better sitting in a cafe in town, a five minute drive away.

For us, La Reserve was an unexpected treat, managed with real charm and style. I recommend it unreservedly.