Our five night stay made us wish we could have found a way to stay longer.
We chose the small cottage on the hill on the basis of Trip Advisor ratings, since we wanted something private for our vacation and honeymoon. The cottage is perfect for two people who want to rest and relax, away from the stores, restaurants, and tourists at Cruz Bay. We spent most of our time sitting in the chairs on the balcony, gazing out at the ocean and ships. The innkeeper, Catherine, provides you with sugar to feed the bananaquits--tiny finch-like birds who flock to the feeder. We never rain the air conditioning, preferring the tradewinds and the sound of the surf about a half mile or so below the hillside.
A couple of caveats to our otherwise glowing review of this site:
1. If you want to go out a lot, whether to the grocery store, a restaurant for dinner, or to the beach, this is not the place for you. Although there is a small mini-mart in Coral Bay that stocks an incredible array of products, the drive down takes awhile and is not for the timid, even in a four wheel drive Jeep. Be prepared to go shopping on your first day and to make the food last. Catherine met us at the ferry landing and drove us to pick up the Jeep, and then we followed her to a local grocery store (with a liquor store across the courtyard) to pick up supplies.
2. At the cottage, cooking is limited. There is a mini-refrigerator in a closet, and a microwave-convection oven on a stand, along with a variety of other small appliances (toaster, blender, percolator, tea kettle) and some basic food items (mustard, salt and pepper, oil and vinegar, coffee). Catherine supplies you with a large jar of her home made granola (excellent), milk, a bottle of wine, tea bags, sugar and creamer). But space is VERY limited and you will need to be comfortable using the barbeque and the sink outdoors. We managed to make breakfasts of cereal, juice, yogurt, and toast, but I would not have attempted making a dish that required cooking on anything more than a hot pad. If this doesn't sound like you, consider renting the villa, which has a full kitchen.
3. Yes, you REALLY need to rent a 4 wheel drive Jeep. The roads around the island tend to involve narrow windy stretches, including some hairpin turns that will make you pause for breath. We are used to this type of driving, but if you are used to freeways and high speeds, be aware that the speed limit is usually 20 mph and you usually go slower than that. The real thrill was following Catherine on the dirt road up to the cottage. It had more than just potholes and ruts--in some places it went sharply uphill and the driver had to dodge big rocks, wild donkeys, and no lighting. I would avoid going out or coming back after dark. Plan on spending at least $80 a day for a basic Jeep that probably has seen better days.
4. Bring less clothes and supplies. We loved being able to walk around in shorts and bare feet, and the outdoor shower made us wish we had one of our own. The cottage is sited in such a way that no one sees what you are (or not) wearing. One day we never got out of our skimpies, lanquishing in the previously mentioned chairs on the balcony to read and relax. Catherine provides almost everything you need: shower gel, shampoo and conditioner, towels, soap, dish detergent and sponges for the outdoor sink and dish drainer, a Bose stereo with lots of CDs, books, candles, mosquito repellent, sunscreen, dishes, pots and pans, utensils, wine opener, ironing board and iron (seriously--now who is planning to iron??), a Swiffer to tidy up from sand, and other items too numerous to mention. Forget a big suitcase and save money on the baggage fees.
5. Stairs. Steep landings. After recent knee surgery, I was concerned I might not make my way up and down, and I was right. Only a last minute steroid injection saved me. You park your Jeep at the top of the hill, and make your way down a VERY steep driveway on food, watching out for stray rocks and pebbles that would hasten your journey down. There are rock steps and new TREX steps, but it is steep. Catherine helps you with luggage, but be nice and bring only a small bag, not that behemoth you often cart around with you.
We wished, in retrospect, that we had booked the villa instead of the cottage, so that we could have taken advantage of the small pool (can only be used by the villa guests, not those staying at the cottage) and the larger space for cooking and eating. Be prepared to book far in advance--many guests are repeat visitors who book lengthy stays. We booked about 6 months out.
Lastly, bring lots of cash with you. Although Catherine takes your initial deposit and final payment by check, many restaurants and taxi tours are cash only. Prices on gasoline were $4.85 a gallon in mid-March; groceries are about double what you would pay on the mainland.