I stayed in one of the backpacker rooms for three weeks - Dec 22-Jan 12, 2012. Sue, the owner, has created a remarkable spot up Westland Mtn. Road. Although I spent nearly my entire stay in Jamaica here, I can tell you there's no place like it on the island. This is because i met dozens of travelers passing through who swore by it - many who paused their orbit around the island to extend their stay, over, and over again until they ran up against reservations. Half of those i met in the cottages were returning from trips before. I completely understand.
The place is a beautiful mix of seclusion and local living. So much nicer greeting the sea each morning after a walk down a country lane instead of a strip of resorts. The house is ideally located between both the cliffs and the beach, which offer alternative vibes. I was definitely a cliff person - and fell in love with the western tip, which offered fantastic untrafficked roads to run along between mountains and sea, and cliffside restaurants and outcroppings to spend the day on. Yet, many days i found myself (and several of the guests) milling about the property - reading in the garden, chatting over coffee, or just lounging in the shade. The place's gravitational force became a running joke and a few days i have to admit i never even made it down the hill. Right down the lane is everything you could ever need - a great fish shack, grocer, coffee shop (run by a friendly guy from Boston), and a laid-back bar and restaurant on the beach filled with more expats and locals than tourists (with wifi on the beach. . . .).
For dining go no farther than across the street to Janice and Martel's Don't be intimidated by the enthusiastic group of guys who slam down dominoes every night out front, everyone is so friendly, the local charm is unbeatable. I ate there nearly every other night. You can place your order in the morning and they'll have it cooked to order when you return from your day by the sea - Jerk Chicken, Brown Stew, Kingfish, Snapper - all over a logwood fire, and much cheaper than anything you'll find in town.
Lastly, you'll be tough to find a better host than Sue. When you stay anywhere as long as i do, the innkeeper is often the make or break it factor on these small properties. She was a well-spring of local knowledge, and i don't just mean being able to tell you the best restaurants in town and sites to see, but also the history of the town, the relations on her lane, the politics of the parish. She hosted a fantastic Christmas day feast complete with turkey, minced pies, and christmas cake, and we went onto hold a big dinner each week thereafter. She cares for her guests and loves the island.
