Superb location at Johnson's Point on the attractive south-west coast with fine sunsets over Montserrat.The two-bedroomed Captain's Villa has a huge garden with a large shade tree and a 180-degree view of the Caribbean. The outdoor breakfast table, where bullfinches and bananaquits come for crumbs, has a lovely view of Turner's Beach.
The Captain's Villa has been much improved since our last visit in 2006, but it still has some way to go. It has a much fresher feel with new white paintwork throughout, both bedrooms now have modern, quiet, remote-controlled air conditioning instead of the old motel-style window-rattlers and the kitchen now has a microwave oven as well as an old-but-efficient gas cooker and huge refrigerator/freezer. For ventilation in the enormous cathedral-ceilinged living room there is just a ceiling fan and window louvres all-round which is not quite enough.
Still desperately needed is a complete kitchen re-fit (30-year-old units have chipped doors hanging off their hinges) and replacement of the equally-ancient upholstery of the otherwise-serviceable lounge furniture. Other villas on the site are in varying degrees of repair. So far, the American family owning the property seemingly can't agree among themselves to commit the necessary funds to bring things up-to-date, which is a shame considering the vast potential of this truly wonderful location.
You will need a car to get around although the friendly 3-Martinis bar/restaurant is just a ten-minute walk along the road (see separate review). A little further is OJ's then Gibson's which serves excellent quality food by candlelight on the beach - at a price. There's a mini-mart at the end of the lane but for most food purchases it is a 15-minute drive to the Epicurean supermarket at Jolly Harbour, where the nearby Peter's char-grill restaurant is recommended. Also try the roadside shacks which turn out very tasty take-aways such as baked chicken with red-bean rice - there's a popular one opposite Gibson's, another near Valley Church and one called Rainbow's End at Bolans.
Two warnings: Stay off the beaches an hour either side of dawn and dusk or the sandflies will get you and their numerous itchy red bites will take two weeks to subside. And avoid night driving - the combination of deep potholes, even deeper gutters, wandering goats and Antiguans driving on full-beam headlights makes it quite a challenge.
For more of my photographs from this area see www.webshots.com/user/aloudon
