I was told that until a few years ago Enryakuji kaikan was only for pilgrims visiting the important temples on Mount Hiei, but now it is open to all visitors and most rooms are very spacious, ours was with two comfortable twin beds, and a tatami area, with futons available for another 4 or 5 people. The room was very spacious, clean, warm and comfortable, with an entrance area, bathroom etc., and with a wide window overlooking the shore of lake Biwa, about 800 metres below, with a small town whose lights create a magic landscape in the dark, together with the odd ferry moving on the lake, the largest in Japan. Staying at Enryakuji Kaikan also gives you the opportunity to sample excellent vegetarian (vegan) food in the tradition of Shojin Ryori. This has to be booked in advance and the meals are taken in a very large refectory, where many visitors arrive donning the yukata which is provided in the rooms. The meals are abundant, and full of variety, colours, and textures. For breakfast, apart from the usual fresh salad, there is a kind of miso soup, and some substantial tofu dishes, with various drinks on offer, from green tea to an Oolong type and many others. The cost is that of a three-star hotel, the service is good, and the stay memorable. In the morning you can join a Buddhist service in one of the temples, and before leaving I would recommend a visit to the shop in the ground floor of the hotel, where there are many interesting items of clothing, postcards, Buddhist items and other omyage.…