Going to Kansas City, Kansas City Here I Come

BEST BREAKFAST BISCUITS

What a way to start a visit to K.C.! Let's have that quintessential midwestern favorite, biscuits and gravy, at the Big Biscuit on 40 Hiway in Independence. It's on the way to our first stop, and this is a breakfast that will tide us over until lunch, no problem.

DAY ONE--START BIG WITH A HINGE OF HISTORY

I would start my first day with a trip to the Truman Library in Independence. This Presidential Library has a wealth of information about Truman's early life and Presidential years, one of the most fascinating periods of our country's history, and one most fraught with controversy and impossible dilemma. Who would have wanted to be in Truman's shoes the summer of 1945? This museum helps me get into Truman's world, and mind, as he participated in some of the most momentous, and infamous, decisions of our history.

For a quick Kansas City favorite lunch, I would drive to the nearest Sonic Drive-in on 23rd Street for a totally thick chocolate shake, Kansas City-style burger and fries.

NOW, A FUN WAY TO CONTEMPLATE OUR PLACE IN THE ECOSYSTEM

After lunch, I would go straight to the Kansas City Zoo in Swope Park. I love zoos. I go to the zoo everywhere I go. My four kids love zoos. We have been to some of the best zoos in the U.S. and Europe, including Toronto, Brookfield in Chicago, San Francisco, Seattle, Berlin (both zoos), Paris and London. Kansas City's Zoo is as good as any of these, and better than most of them. I'm not kidding.

Of course, the star attraction of the Kansas City Zoo is the African Savannah exhibit. On a hot and muggy Kansas City summer day, as you look out over the Swope Park grasslands, you really feel as if you could be in Africa, watching the lions and giraffes in their natural habitats. I can spend hours watching the chimpanzee community through the window of the viewing centre that allows me to see their large and beautifully-designed habitat.

If you go to the Australia exhibit, it's hard to believe the kangaroos aren't going to jump through their electric fences and come to see you.

TRY NOT TO THINK OF THE SWEET LITTLE DUCKIES YOU SAW IN SWOPE PARK TODAY

This is considered the number one restaurant in a city known for its great chefs. Husband and I can reminisce about our dinner here 24 years ago, when I introduced him to my parents. This time I won't be too nervous to enjoy my food. Of course I'll have the signature duck with peppercorn sauce.

DAY TWO--START WITH ART (AFTER BREAKFAST AT THE RAPHAEL)

I have spent so many happy hours in this collection. When I was a small child, I took the art classes here. As an adolescent, it was my introduction to European painting. Now I appreciate the huge Asian Art Collection, in the U.S. second in size and importance only to the Asian Art Museum of San Francisco. This will happily take up the whole morning.

THIS REALLY IS THE ULTIMATE HAMBURGER JOINT

Hamburgers two days in a row? Well, where are we? Isn't this the beef capital of the country? Don't worry, tomorrow, we're having bar-b-que. Right now, just enjoy the atmosphere of Winstead's, the ultimate drive-in. Yes, I like the shakes here even better than Sonic's. I've been coming here since high school, when my friends and I used to drive here after using the UMKC library to do research on our English literature papers for Mr. Kincaid's English classes. Fortunately, J. Alfred Prufrock will not accompany me on this trip. Though I grow old and wear my trousers rolled, I will eat my Winstead's hamburger bold. With the rings, please.

YOU WON'T FIND THIS ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE USA

After lunch, I'll take a quick trip to the Liberty Memorial. The top of the Memorial has some of the best views of the city, and the Museum is the only national American museum dedicated to World War I.

THE RAILROADS THAT CREATED KC--AND A LOT OF THE REST OF THE COUNTRY

We just have time to pop into Union Station and look around the historic Kansas City Rail Experience. If we have a little extra time, we can hit the new science centre. Union Station is considered one of the most beautiful buildings in Kansas City, and an architectural landmark. My parents use an old Union Station bench as their coffee table. When we've finished here, we can head over to Crown Centre for our dinner reservations.

NOW FOR ANOTHER GREAT AMERICAN DINNER

When I was a teenager, this was considered the ultimate in haute cuisine in K.C. It still is.

This restaurant is the flagship of Crown Center, the Kansas City monument to Hallmark Cards, which has its headquarters here. J.C. Hall and his son wanted a restaurant that would showcase the best in American cuisine. A dinner here is a night to remember. I think I'll have the Campo Lindo Chicken Breast, followed by the Duet of Mexican Cookies.

KANSAS CITY JAZZ

Look, it's 9:00. We still have time to head to the Blue Room, rated one of the top 100 jazz clubs in the world by Downbeat magazine. Not only will we get to hear some of today's great jazz, we will get to sample Kansas City jazz from the golden era of the 20's and 30's. Best place in town for that nightcap.

BASEBALL DAY! IT'S DAY THREE AND WE'RE TAKING OURSELVES TO THE BALL GAME AFTER WE HIT A GRAND SLAM OF SIGHTS.

OK, I have not been here yet, but I can't wait to go! We're headed right back to the intersection of 18th and Vine where we came last night to the Blue Room (18th and Vine is known as the cultural heart of the African-American community in KC). In fact the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, the American Jazz Museum, and the Blue Room are all housed together at this historic site.

PEOPLE WATCHING ON THE PLAZA

We have to eat lunch at the Sidewalk Cafe on 47th St., the main drag of the Plaza. Now called the Classic Cup Sidewalk Cafe, to most Kansas Citians, this restaurant is simply "the Sidewalk Cafe." Everybody knows it, everybody loves it. I'm pleased to see that the menu is better than when I worked here as a waitress 24 years ago. They have tapas now! Even back in the old days it was a great place for lunch, dinner or drinks. A Kansas City landmark that doesn't disappoint, it's a perfect spot to launch our Plaza afternoon.

TIME TO WALK THE WALK AND SHOP THE SHOP

The Country Club Plaza, the first suburban shopping district in the U.S., built in 1922, is where we're spending the rest of the afternoon.

First, we'll walk to the J.C. Nichols Fountain, built in honor of the Plaza'a designer. The four horsemen, representing the rivers of the world, were sculpted in 1910 by Henri Greber in Paris. They were brought to Kansas City in the year of my birth, 1959, and are the inspiration for the many other Kansas City fountains that make this the American City of Fountains. Everytime I pass the horsemen, I hear my mother's voice saying, "There are your fountains."

Next, we'll visit the replica of the Lights of Seville and the Giralda Tower, built to honor Kansas City's sister city in Spain. Then we'll walk all around the Plaza admiring the other sculptures and fountains sprinkled through the area, including the bronze of Winston and Clementine Churchill entitled "Married Love."

Finally, we hit the stores. There is virtually nothing you can't find here, it is the ABC of shopping, from Armani, Banana Republic and Chicos to Vittadini and finally, Z Gallerie (art and home furnishings).

FINALLY--BEST BBQ IN KC

It really is. I can prove it. My dad and his friend Big Jim have been coming here weekly for about 30 years. They know bar-b-que. I always hit this spot at least once on every visit home. Usually more than once. There is a lot of great bbq in KC, but if you can only go to one, go to Rosedale's. We're having dinner here tonight on our way to the game.

HOME, HOME OF THE ROYALS

We will finish our visit to KC with a visit to Kauffman Stadium. We can watch the game, enjoy the fountains, or visit Little K, the miniature baseball park with batting cage, speed pitch, and special attractions for the 12 and under crowd. My husband considers this one of the two nicest parks in the majors, and it is his personal goal to visit every park. If it's Friday, we'll have fireworks as well!